Mexican Ceremonial Cacao - Santana 2024
$ 195.00
Type: Trinatario
Certs: Direct Trade Crop: 2024 Fermentation: None, washed raw cocoa Certifications: High in Flavonols and Procyanidins
Flavor Notes: As I look back at the first Mexican chocolate from Oaxaca I ever had, I realize it was probably a washed cocoa not unlike this one. Why is that significant? The stunningly alive flavor is what inspired me to start Chocolate Alchemy over 20 years ago. Why is it washed and unfermented? The grower says it best. "Due to the rainy weather and cold climate, cocoa fermentation is a near impossible task. However, farmers “wash” cacao according to the Mexican tradition. And as washed cacao the bean shines in drinking chocolate with its strong and herbal flavor notes. " There are a few things to unpack here. First and foremost, this cocoa is not fermented and is particularly unsuited for classic eating chocolate. I'm not going to bother with my classic spider chart as that is meant for eating chocolate. This is an absolutely first for me as to date I’ve never offered an unfermented cocoa that was not used to make Ruby Chocolate and that I actually liked. The aroma is low toned chocolate (no surprise not being fermented). The flavor, even the 100%, has a unique umami and slightly bitter nut flavor that is not altogether unpleasant and somehow has me coming back to it. At 70%, the flavor is distinctly bitter chocolate and pithy astringency that lingers. But remember, that is the chocolate bar and that is not where this bean shines.
This unfermented and raw cocoa (after being roasted) is absolutely great for drinking chocolate. Not Brewing cocoa or sipping chocolate—which is little more than melting chocolate in a cup. I mean mixing it with water or milk and as much sugar as you would like. Once diluted, the astringency drops away to something much more balanced and even kind of addictive. As for the taste, the chocolate is a little understated but certainly there and rather elegant. The mouthfeel is wonderfully thick and full and that unripe pepper flavor I mentioned integrates in a lovely fashion, with back notes of bitter nut and nuanced chocolate. Ceremonial Uses The other thing that makes this coco stand out is has an exceptionally high natural Flavonol Content. Here's where we get technical (and exciting): this cacao contains 12,260 mg/100g of DP1-7 flavonols – that's 4-5 times higher than many fermented cacao! The washing process, rather than traditional fermentation, preserves these compounds, making this bean particularly special, especially that it also makes a great drinking chocolate. But it isn't just the lack of fermentation that is responsible for these high levels. It is the beans themselves. Other unfermented beans, like the ones we are offering for Ruby Chocolate are not even 1/2 this level. These are truly remarkable beans and I feel blessed the coop noticed and set them aside as a special offering. They suggested I offer these beans as Ceremonial Cacao. I'll admit that is a bit outside my wheelhouse but I can't see why they would not be absolutely perfect for any ceremonial use you might use them for. The washing process is very traditional and local, they have been treated carefully and with respect and to top it if, they make an incredible drink (see below) and they have flavonol levels I've never seen beaten. I'm not sure what else could be asked of them. The roasted beans and nibs we are offering are roasted as gentle as possible to preserve as much of the flavonol content as possible.
How to Use It:
For drinking chocolate (where this bean truly shines):
* Start with a 50-60% chocolate preparation
- Use 1-2 oz per cup of liquid
- Steam it with an espresso machine if you have one (my personal favorite version below)
- Or simply heat it on the stovetop, or whisk it with hot milk/water
I love making it into 100% chocolate and melting it into your coffee. I pull a shot of espresso directly onto a 1oz square of 100% and a few cubes of ice and steam the whole thing into a rich and frothy delight. The lack of sugar allows it to incorporate better. I'm not 100% sure why but I tried it with the 60% I suggest above and preferred the 100% chocolate mocha more.
The People Behind the Bean:
In the Sierra Norte de Oaxaca, nestled among forest paths and mountain streams, lies the small village of San Felipe de León. This remote community, part of the municipality of San Juan Bautista Valle Nacional, is home to around 300 people of the Chinanteco indigenous minority. At the heart of this cacao-growing community is Dionisia. Her farm, perched atop a small mountain, requires over an hour's journey on foot from her house plays a crucial role as the community's organizer, coordinating with other cacao and pataxte farmers to collectively fulfill orders. The region's cacao production tells a unique story. While Oaxaca is renowned for its moles and drinking chocolate, its cacao production is so modest it barely registers in national statistics. The entire region produces just over 100 tons annually, almost entirely from what locals call "cultivos de traspatio" (backyard gardens). This dispersed, small-scale production pattern makes traditional fermentation practically impossible, leading to the preservation of their traditional washing method.Here's the interesting thing about unfermented cocoa – it's surprisingly forgiving in the roasting process. Don't overthink it: aim for an EOR temperature of 255-265°F. It is really no more complicated than that.
- 2 lb batch: P1 for 18 minutes
- 1 kg batch: P1 for 20 minutes
- 2.5 lb batch: P1 for 22 minutes
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